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Ibn Battuta - The Incredible
Traveller
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"To the world of today the
men of medieval Christendom already seem remote and unfamiliar. Their names and
deeds are recorded in our history-books, their monuments still adorn our cities,
but our kinship with them is a thing unreal, which costs an effort of
imagination. How much more must this apply to the great Islamic civilization,
that stood over against medieval Europe, menacing its existence and yet linked
to it by a hundred ties that even war and fear could not sever. Its monuments
too abide, for those who may have the fortunate to visit them, but its men and
manners are to most of us utterly unknown, or dimly conceived in the romantic
image of the Arabian Nights. Even for the specialist it is difficult to
reconstruct their lives and see them as they were. Histories and biographies
there are in quantity, but the historians for all their picturesque details,
seldom show the ability to select the essential and to give their figures that
touch of the intimate which makes them live again for the reader. It is in this
faculty that Ibn Battuta excels."
Thus begins the book, "Ibn
Battuta, Travels in
Asia and Africa
1325-1354" published by Routledge and Kegan Paul (1).
Abu Abdullah Muhammad Ibn
Battuta
Introduction
Abu Abdullah Muhammad Ibn
Battuta, also known as Shams ad - Din, was born at Tangier, Morocco, on the 24th
February 1304 C.E. (703 Hijra). He left Tangier on Thursday, 14th June, 1325
C.E. (2nd Rajab 725 A.H.), when he was twenty one years of age. His travels
lasted for about thirty years, after which he returned to Fez, Morocco at the court of
Sultan Abu 'Inan and dictated accounts of his journeys to Ibn Juzay. These are
known as the famous Travels (Rihala) of Ibn Battuta. He died at Fez in 1369 C.E.
Ibn Battuta was the only
medieval traveller who is known to have visited the lands of every Muslim ruler
of his time. He also travelled in Ceylon (present Sri Lanka), China and
Byzantium and South Russia. The mere extent of his travels is estimated at no
less than 75,000 miles, a figure which is not likely to have been surpassed
before the age of steam.
Travels
In the course of his first
journey, Ibn Battuta travelled through Algiers, Tunis, Egypt, Palestine and
Syria to Makkah. After visiting Iraq, Shiraz and Mesopotamia he once more
returned to perform the Hajj at Makkah and remained there for three years. Then
travelling to Jeddah he went to Yemen
by sea, visited Aden andset sail for Mombasa, East Africa. After going up to
Kulwa he came back to Oman
and repeated pilgrimage to Makkah in 1332 C.E. via Hormuz, Siraf, Bahrain
and Yamama. Subsequently he set out with the purpose of going to India, but on
reaching Jeddah, he appears to have changed his mind (due perhaps to the
unavailability of a ship bound for India), and revisited Cairo, Palestine and
Syria, thereafter arriving at Aleya (Asia Minor) by sea and travelled across
Anatolia and Sinope. He then crossed the Black Sea and after long wanderings he
reached Constantinople through Southern Ukraine.
On his return, he visited
Khurasan through Khawarism (Khiva) and having visited all the important cities
such as Bukhara, Balkh, Herat, Tus, Mashhad and Nishapur, he crossed the
Hindukush mountains via the 13,000 ft Khawak Pass into Afghanistan and passing
through Ghani and Kabul entered India. After visiting Lahri (near modern
Karachi), Sukkur, Multan, Sirsa and Hansi, he reached Delhi. For several years
Ibn Battuta enjoyed the patronage of Sultan Mohammad Tughlaq, and was later sent
as Sultan's envoy to
China. Passing
through Cental India and Malwa he took ship from Kambay for Goa, and after
visiting many thriving ports along the Malabar coast
he reached the
Maldive Islands, from which he crossed to Ceylon. Continuing his journey, he
landed on the Ma'bar (Coromandal) coast and once more returning to the Maldives
he finally set sail for Bengal and visited Kamrup, Sylhet and Sonargaon (near
Dhaka). Sailing along the Arakan coast he came to Sumatra and later landed at
Canton via Malaya and Cambodia. In China he travelled northward to Peking
through Hangchow. Retracing his steps he returned to Calicut and taking ship
came to Dhafari and Muscat, and passing through Paris (Iran), Iraq, Syria,
Palestine and Egypt made his seventh and last pilgrimage to Makkah in November
1348 C.E. and then returned to his home town of Fez. His travels did not end
here - he later visited Muslim Spain and the lands of the Niger across the
Sahara.
On his return to Fez, Ibn
Battuta dictated the accounts ofhis travels to Ibn Juzay al-Kalbi (1321-1356 C.E.)
at the court of Sultan Abu Inan (1348-1358 C.E). Ibn Juzay took three months to
accomplish this work ,which he finished on 9th December 1355 C.E.
Writings
In order to experience the
flavour of Ibn Battuta's narrative one must sample a few extracts. The following
passage illustrates the system of social security in operation in the Muslim
world in the early 14th century C.E. :
"The variety and expenditure
of the religious endowmentsat Damascus
are beyond computation. There are endowments in aid of persons who cannot
undertake the pilgrimage to Makkah, out of which ate paid the expenses of those
who go in their stead. There are other endowments for supplying wedding outfits
to girls whose families are unable to provide them, and others for the freeing
of prisoners. There are endowments for travellers, out of the revenues of which
they are given food, clothing, and the expenses of conveyance to their
countries. Then there are endowments for the improvement and paving of the
streets, because all the lanes in Damascus have pavements on either side, on
which the foot passengers walk, while those who ride use the roadway in the
centre". p.69, ref l
Here is another example
which describes
Baghdad in the early
14th century C.E. :
"Then we travelled to
Baghdad, the Abode of Peace and Capital of Islam. Here there are two bridges
like that at Hilla, on which the people promenade night and day, both men and
women. The baths at Baghdad are numerous and excellently constructed, most of
them being painted with pitch, which has the appearance of black marble. This
pitch is brought from a spring between Kufa and Basra, from which it flows
continually. It gathers at the sides of the spring like clay and is shovelled up
and brought to Baghdad. Each establishment has a number of private bathrooms,
every one of which has also a wash-basin in the corner, with two taps supplying
hot and cold water. Every bather is given three towels, one to wear round his
waist when he goes in, another to wear round his waist when he comes out, and
the third to dry himself with." p.99, ref 1
In the next example Ibn
Battuta describes in great detai lsome of the crops and fruits encountered on
his travels:
"From Kulwa we sailed to
Dhafari [Dhofar], at the extremity of Yemen. Thoroughbred horses are exported
from here to India,
the passage taking a month with favouring wind.... The inhabitants cultivate
millet and irrigate it from very deep wells, the water from which is raised in a
large bucket drawn by a number of ropes. In the neighbourhood of the town there
are orchards with many banana trees. The bananas are of immense size; one which
was weighed in my presence scaled twelve ounces and was pleasant to the taste
and very sweet. They also grow betel-trees and coco-palms, which are found only
in India and the town of Dhafari." p.113, ref 1
Another example of In
Battuta's keen observation is seen in the next passage:
"Betel-trees are grown like
vines on can trellises or else trained up coco-palms. They have no fruit and are
only grown for their leaves. The Indians have a high opinion of betel, and if a
man visits a friend and the latter gives him five leaves of it, you would think
he had given him the world, especially if he is a prince or notable. A gift of
betel is a far greater honour than a gift of gold and silver. It is used in the
following way: First one takes areca-nuts, which are like nutmegs, crushes them
into small bits and chews them. Then the betel leaves are taken, a little chalk
is put on them, and they are chewed with the areca-nuts." p.114, ref 1
Ibn Battuta -
The Forgotten Traveller
Ibn Battuta's sea voyages
and references to shipping reveal that the Muslims completely dominated the
maritime activity of the Red Sea,
the Arabian Sea,
the Indian Ocean,
and the Chinese waters. Also it is seen that though the Christian traders were
subject to certain restrictions, most of the economic negotiations were
transacted on the basis of equality and mutual respect.
Ibn Battuta, one of the most
remarkable travellers of all time, visited China sixty years after Marco Polo
and in fact travelled 75,000 miles, much more than Marco Polo. Yet Battuta is
never mentioned in geography books used in Muslim countries, let alone those in
the West. Ibn Battuta's contribution to geography is unquestionably as great as
that of any geographer yet the accounts of his travels are not easily accessible
except to the specialist. The omission of reference to Ibn Battuta's
contribution in geography books is not an isolated example. All great Musiims
whether historians, doctors, astronomers, scientists or chemists suffer the same
fate. One can understand why these great Muslims are ignored by the West. But
the indifference of the Muslim governments is incomprehensible. In order to
combat the inferiority complex that plagues the Muslim Ummah, we must rediscover
the contributions of Muslims in fields such as science, medicine, engineering,
architecture and astronomy. This will encourage contemporary young Muslims to
strive in these fields and not think that major success is beyond their reach.
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